A Century of American
Viticulture
By: Paul E. Read and Sanjun Gu
NEBRASKA
B
THE NEXT NAPA VALLEY?
By Paul E.
Read, Professor of Horticulture/Viticulture
University of Nebraska
Lincoln, Nebraska 68583-0724
E-mail pread@unl.edu
When I tell people that I am serving as the resource person for Nebraska=s
developing grape and wine industry, they often smile or laugh and say,
Nebraska? Why would there be grape and wine production in Nebraska? To
understand the answer to this question, one must understand a bit of history.
As was the case for neighboring states such
as Minnesota and Iowa, early settlers brought their favorite fruit trees,
vines and other crops with them from the Eastern States. Nebraska was no
exception. Grapevine cuttings of varieties favored in the early to mid 1800s
were brought to the Nebraska Territory and vineyards were started by these
intrepid pioneer horticulturists. In addition, wild grapes (Vitis riparia)
were in abundance along the river valleys in much of the Nebraska Territory.
It was common to collect these wild grapes for fresh consumption, jams,
jellies, pies and of course, wine.
A small but flourishing grape and wine industry was present
by the late 19th Century with approximately 5000 acres being
reported at the turn of the century for the 11 counties comprising Southeast
Nebraska. However, the advent of World War I, followed by the Constitutional
Amendment known as PROHIBITION,
led to the demise of a high percentage of the grape and wine industry in the
state of Nebraska. During the period that prohibition held sway, 1919 to
1933, some grape growing continued on a small scale, primarily for home use
such as fresh eating, jams and jellies, and juices.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING!
When prohibition was repealed in 1933, one logically
might have expected that the grape and wine industry would have resumed some
significance, but by 1933 the country was in the depths of the Great
Depression, and in the Midwest and prairie states the
dust bowl
conditions further exacerbated the economic woes of farmers and citizens in
general.
Furthermore, with many of the rights related
to management of alcoholic beverages left to the states, many states chose not
to liberalize the laws that might have permitted establishment of wineries.
(Of course, states such as California and New York moved quickly to liberalize
their laws and encourage the resurgence of their wine industry.) However,
Nebraska did not do so and as a result the federal allowance of a household
being limited to production of 200 gallons of wine per year was the law of the
land in Nebraska. In addition, laws were put in place that prohibited
shipment of wines, either intrastate or interstate, and prohibited
consumption on premises,
so even had wineries been established they would not have been able to indulge
in normal commerce nor allow people to consume their wines in a picnic area or
similar setting.
Because of the dire economic circumstances of the 1930s, no
former grape growing family dared take the risk of putting in new vineyards
for wine production when vineyard establishment would be so costly and
monetary return unlikely for the first three to five years.
ANew
Deal@
economics further fostered farmers focusing on production of commodity crops
such as wheat and corn, which had guaranteed price supports, as well as price
supports available for several other commodities. Therefore, surviving
farmers in Nebraska chose not to pursue production of fruit crops in general
(and especially grapes) when they could be guaranteed a modest living because
of the price support system that was put into place in the 1930=s.
Further interruptions to the flow of what might have been a
logical sequence of events leading to reintroduction of entrepreneurial
opportunities for production of grapes and wines included the advent of World
War II, the Korean War, the Cold War, and the Viet Nam era. Another deterrent
to exploration of grapes or other alternative crops was the continuing
relative profitability of price-supported commodity crops. However, during
the decades of the middle part of the twentieth century, many surrounding
states further liberalized their laws to provide permissive legislation for
the establishment of a wine industry. Unfortunately, it was not until the mid
1980=s
that the Nebraska Farm Wineries Act went into effect. This law changed the
upper limit of wine that could be produced by an individual from the
aforementioned 200 gallons per household to a maximum of 50,000 gallons for a
farm winery. The effort to spearhead the passage of this legislation was led
by Jim Danielson, an erstwhile grape grower with approximately ten
acres of grapes planted in the early 1980=s
near Plattsmouth, Nebraska. Although Danielson did not have designs on
beginning a winery himself, he often spoke to others to encourage them to grow
grapes and consider the potential for wineries in Nebraska. Also, in the
early 1980=s
Professor Donald Steinegger began vigorous pursuit of cultivar trials
of grapes on the Lincoln campus of the University of Nebraska. These early
trials provided valuable information for neophyte grape growers then and
later.
Meanwhile, Ed Swanson began similar evaluations of
wine-grape cultivars on private land near Pierce, Nebraska. Gradually, over a
period of years, Ed weeded out a number of cultivars that were unsuitable and
settled on several French-American hybrids such as
>Dechaunac=,
>Marechal
Foch=,
>Chancellor=,
and >Leon
Millot=,
along with two of the new American hybrids developed by Elmer Swenson
of Osceola, Wisconsin,
>LaCrosse=,
and >St.
Croix=.
While evaluating dozens of cultivars for suitability in his location near
Pierce, Ed Swanson devoured all of the literature he could find, attended
workshops, and practiced wine-making over an extended period of time. In the
process he became an excellent viticulturist and an outstanding winemaker. As
a result, on December 17, 1994, Ed Swanson opened the doors to Cuthills
Vineyards Winery, ANebraska=s
first and largest winery@
(at the time, it was not only the first and largest but the only
post-prohibition winery in Nebraska!). Ed certainly was a true modern day
pioneer for Nebraska=s
wine industry.
Subsequently, James Arthur Vineyards, a winery and
vineyard operation located near Raymond, Nebraska, was opened by owner Jim
Jeffers in 1997. James Arthur Vineyards, in addition to having its own
estate-grown grapes, has initiated an ambitious and pro-active contract
program in which growers are signed up to produce grapes on contract for the
winery at James Arthur Vineyards. High quality wines were first produced at
James Arthur Vineyards by winemaker Tim Moore and subsequently by
winemaker Michael Black.
Wines from both vineyards have met with both local favor
and have achieved national acclaim. Numerous awards have been won by wines
from Cuthills Vineyards James Arthur Vineyards and by Lovers Leap Vineyards, a
vineyard/winery located in Crawford,in such prestigious competitions as the
Jerry Mead International Wine Competition, the American Society of Enology and
Viticulture Competition, the New World International Wine Competition, and the
Dallas Morning News Competition.
With the further addition this year of Blue Valley Vineyards
near Crete, Nebraska=s
developing grape and wine industry has grown from less than 10 acres of
commercial vineyards and no wineries in the early 1990s to nearly 300 acres of
vineyards and four wineries today.
These wineries have focused part of their efforts on
encouraging ties to the tourist industry and they have developed successful
events at their wineries. Facilitating these thrusts have been the passage of
legislation that went into effect September 12, 1997, that allowed intra-and
interstate shipment of Nebraska wines and also allowed for
consumption on premises. Examples of
some of the approaches taken by the wineries include Cuthills Vineyards=
highly successful
Wine and Wings Festival
now in its sixth year, to be held in August 2001; and James Arthur Vineyards
held a highly successful
Renaissance Festival in which
they feature some of their mead/honey wine blends. . In 1998, Cuthills
Vineyards installed a 50,000 square foot, award winning addition to their
winery building, which included food-catering facilities, thus enabling them
to provide additional services for special events at the winery. James Arthur
Vineyards has held frequent dinner tastings at their winery, as well.
WHAT ABOUT RESEARCH?